doc: rewrite watchman discovery with dirty-tracking & lazy-reload design
Replaces the previous connection/subscription-focused watchman.md with a
design centered on generation-based dirty tracking and lazy reload.
Key design elements:
- GenerationClock: monotonic atomic counter, avoids ABA flag problems
- DirtyTracker: maps paths to the generation they were dirtied at
- TrackedMappedFileCache: generation-aware cache that reloads on access
- Watcher task: background tokio task feeding DirtyTracker from watchman
- 5-phase integration plan from primitives through graceful degradation