docs: update OBSERVE.md for standalone observer architecture
Fix stale 3-mode state machine (now 2-mode since tmux extraction).
Document the observer architecture: standalone agents uploading via
HTTP ingest API. Add sol remote CLI reference for managing observers.
Note solstone-tmux and solstone-macos as standalone packages.
Co-Authored-By: Claude Opus 4.6 (1M context) <noreply@anthropic.com>